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Tips of the Trade: Medium Hair Type Clients

Brenda Stearns - Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Structurally medium hair is the best balance. The cuticle layer is usually 5 to 10 layers and fairly compact making it strong and resilient to the rigors of heat styling and brushing. Because it has a compact cuticle, it reflects light and has a shiny appearance. The cortex which creates the strength and girth of the hair is what gives medium textures that fabulous body. It makes the strands flexible and creates ease of styling with round brushing, curling irons or that ever sleek flat iron look. This hair type also often has a medulla, which can be described as the marrow of the hair. This is only found in medium to coarse hair, rarely found in finer strands. All together this makes a hair strand that is soft, shiny and strong.

Medium hair types are ideal for stylists since hair tends to be extremely durable to everyday wear and holds style well. Since medium hair types are the best to style, they often are abused in our attempt to enhance color and texture. It’s pretty resilient; however, everyone has its breaking point…literally. When ends begin to split, we have pushed it to its structural verge and breakage will occur.

Often, during the styling process, we use a variety of products to manipulate and hold its shape. If hair is not ‘properly’ cleansed, the product residue can leave this type of hair dull, flat and lifeless. Dehydration can cause frizziness and fly aways. To revitalize and keep it looking and feeling its best, I follow this proven care regime to enhance the best qualities of medium hair.

  • Clarifying Shampoo: I recommend using a Clarifying Shampoo once a month – at a minimum. The chelating properties in a clarifying shampoo assist in removing product and environmental buildup.

  • Reconditioning Treatment: After hair is cleansed, I find this is the best time to apply a deep conditioner or mask with heat. The heat imparts deeper penetration into the cuticle layer, improves shine and flexibility as well as protects the hair shaft from styling friction.

  • Sulfate Free Shampoo: For regular hair washing, I recommend using a sulfate free shampoo. Typically medium hair types are able to skip 1-3 days between shampooing. And when they do shampoo, they should focus on the scalp to enhance volume, style and shine.

  • Crème Rinse: Once cleansed, a finishing crème rinse keeps the cuticle closed and prolongs the protection of the reconditioning treatment. On longer hair clients, I focus on the ends of the hair during application, often avoiding the scalp.

  • Thermal Protection: Most everyone styles their hair – and heat is typically the common denominator for go to styling tools. A heat protectant spray is great in reducing and often preventing heat damage.

To recap – here are the basics of Medium Hair Types: 

This hair type holds style well, appears thick and is less prone to breakage (when compared to fine hair types). Hope these tips help you and your clients experience thicker, stronger, longer hair!

Yours in Hair Health!
Brenda Stearns

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